Monday, 21 February 2011
Behind the scenes at LFW
This was the first day I spent a good few hours at Somerset House soaking in the general atmosphere (rather than just walking around London and shopping..).
The designers exhibition rooms allowed for a close up view of some sample pieces from their collections straight off the catwalk for press and buyers to gawp at.
Here are some of my favourites..
Beautiful tweed coats at Jean-Pierre Braganza, the draping sits just right.
A Friend by the AF Vandevorst duo, reasonably priced but still retaining that Vandevorst aesthetic and merging of luxe fabrics..
"Hot new label" Insideout with a full monochromatic collection on display. Their SS 11 collection selling out from Selfridges and Colette apparently. I love anything black and white with every shade in between. Warning: will take a few good Googles to get decent brand info!
Some amazing costume jewellery from Mawi, with generous usage of rose gold, a very opulent collection indeed! Was admiring the ruby red and emerald green jewel encrusted pieces.
Found this adorable Jackie JS Lee back pack (never made it to the presentation, oops!). Some lovely camel highlights and I will be looking out for that bag.
Was really excited to see the Holly Fulton pieces up close - I thought this was a strong collection, another masterful use of geometric shapes, multiple materials and eye-catching embellishments. Yum.
Front...
...And back!
A collection which really came to life up close was David Koma. The fabrics just felt so damn good!
Stunning dresses all the way up the wall.. Looks like watercolour on paper. So delicate.
Felder Felder collection was punky and rock 'n' roll with a glamorous, high fashion edge. Beautiful hand-dyed leather pieces on show..
The smartest thing I've done this year so far is to forget my camera.. hence the 'meh' photos and lack of close ups. Also meant there are no pics from any shows because the camera I have just wasn't up to it...
Oh well, these are the ones I'm not too embarrassed to show and hope you guys get a glimpse of the loveliness of the garments up close (ish). Click on the photos for a meagre enlargement!
Catwalk photos courtesty of Style.com
The designers exhibition rooms allowed for a close up view of some sample pieces from their collections straight off the catwalk for press and buyers to gawp at.
Here are some of my favourites..
Beautiful tweed coats at Jean-Pierre Braganza, the draping sits just right.
A Friend by the AF Vandevorst duo, reasonably priced but still retaining that Vandevorst aesthetic and merging of luxe fabrics..
"Hot new label" Insideout with a full monochromatic collection on display. Their SS 11 collection selling out from Selfridges and Colette apparently. I love anything black and white with every shade in between. Warning: will take a few good Googles to get decent brand info!
Some amazing costume jewellery from Mawi, with generous usage of rose gold, a very opulent collection indeed! Was admiring the ruby red and emerald green jewel encrusted pieces.
Found this adorable Jackie JS Lee back pack (never made it to the presentation, oops!). Some lovely camel highlights and I will be looking out for that bag.
Was really excited to see the Holly Fulton pieces up close - I thought this was a strong collection, another masterful use of geometric shapes, multiple materials and eye-catching embellishments. Yum.
Front...
...And back!A collection which really came to life up close was David Koma. The fabrics just felt so damn good!
Stunning dresses all the way up the wall.. Looks like watercolour on paper. So delicate.
Felder Felder collection was punky and rock 'n' roll with a glamorous, high fashion edge. Beautiful hand-dyed leather pieces on show..
The smartest thing I've done this year so far is to forget my camera.. hence the 'meh' photos and lack of close ups. Also meant there are no pics from any shows because the camera I have just wasn't up to it...Oh well, these are the ones I'm not too embarrassed to show and hope you guys get a glimpse of the loveliness of the garments up close (ish). Click on the photos for a meagre enlargement!
Catwalk photos courtesty of Style.com
Sunday, 23 January 2011
Autumn/Winter- We Meet Again
So I have never really focused on menswear but all is about to change (pause while the blogosphere readjusts). Once again, it's a whistlestop tour of Paris Fashion Week (it's the best and most important on my calendar, k? It's my blog and I shall neglect whichever week(s) I want!).
I am absolutely distraught that I couldn't be there, but I need to put the tears aside and get on with the job.
Part of the beauty of Paris Fashion Weeks is the setting - each one grander than the last - with the aim of invoking the desired atmosphere before the show even begins. Place des Vosgues, Salon des Miroirs, Galerie de Minéralogie... you get the idea, they are usuall pretty epic.
So such an epic week deserves an epic post. The epicness is delivered in the form of one long post because let's face it, we are all too busy getting on with our immensely full lives - bagel in mouth and keys in hand sort of way - to sit through a detailed blog post on Menswear. You want it now, I get it!
Excuse me as I wipe the week old drool from my keyboard as we move to cover Ann Demeulemeester (at Couvent des Cordeliers). She serves as a constant favourite, and this season did not disappoint:
The colour palette, the styling (notice the horsehair woven into the models' hair), and the beautiful cuts of the garments make for an all-round poetic show-stopper. I admit I would wear every single piece myself, if she did skinny girl sizes.
Sadly we must trot along...
To Lanvin:
I think it is safe to say that Lucas Ossendrijver has succeeded in bringing elegance to the youth and the amalgamation of old school suave with a modern twist gives this collection a good balance without feeling disjointed. And who can ignore the always dreamy flow of the fabrics? Impressive..
On to another direction now for Alexis Mabille (at Salon des miroirs):
No brownie points for guessing where the theme of this collection came from. This is a departure for me from the usual mens fashion I gravitate towards and is also a departure for Mabille (no bows!) with an ever so slightly more masculine thread throughout. The strong cut and material of the coats help to toughen up the collection but the styling of the above ensemble is whimsical but surprisingly cool.
As always, Prorsum (from MILAN I know but it's a constant feature here..) delivers some killer coats for AW, which should be strong pieces in any self respecting winter collection but the colours and some of the cuts just don't do it for me.. I'm not a big believer in wearing different coats for every possible weather combination and this is obviously where this collection jars with me. You decide:
(Had to showcase the panelling..) And if you haven't seen it already, find the rather wet Prorsum finale here.
Another old time favourite is Rick Owens (at POPB, salle Marcel Cerdan):
The myriad of influences in this latest outing can porbably be guessed just by careful observation and there is real skill in the way that Rick has managed to combine them all into a cohesive, incredibly cut collection. Men in skirts have never looked so cool since the Scots. Also note his signature awesome boots..
Lastly, on to the rather interesting collection that Margiela (at Passage du Désir, BETC) presented to his audience with a backstage view where they could dissect the pieces one by one:
The choice of models in this show was probably the direct opposite of those by Yamamoto - older and exceedingly handsome, which presents a perfectly inoffensive but strong setting for garments they carry. Some have commented that this is a more wearable collection from the fashion house but we shall see whether this is a trend..
Postscript: I had wanted to feature an amazing designer who goes by the name of In Aisce but until I can find public pictures of his latest collection, I shall refrain. If you are on Style Zeitgeist, you can view the collection here
Couture Week post coming soon..
Until then! Bisous
All photos courtesty of Style.com
I am absolutely distraught that I couldn't be there, but I need to put the tears aside and get on with the job.
Part of the beauty of Paris Fashion Weeks is the setting - each one grander than the last - with the aim of invoking the desired atmosphere before the show even begins. Place des Vosgues, Salon des Miroirs, Galerie de Minéralogie... you get the idea, they are usuall pretty epic.
So such an epic week deserves an epic post. The epicness is delivered in the form of one long post because let's face it, we are all too busy getting on with our immensely full lives - bagel in mouth and keys in hand sort of way - to sit through a detailed blog post on Menswear. You want it now, I get it!
Excuse me as I wipe the week old drool from my keyboard as we move to cover Ann Demeulemeester (at Couvent des Cordeliers). She serves as a constant favourite, and this season did not disappoint:
The colour palette, the styling (notice the horsehair woven into the models' hair), and the beautiful cuts of the garments make for an all-round poetic show-stopper. I admit I would wear every single piece myself, if she did skinny girl sizes.Sadly we must trot along...
To Lanvin:
I think it is safe to say that Lucas Ossendrijver has succeeded in bringing elegance to the youth and the amalgamation of old school suave with a modern twist gives this collection a good balance without feeling disjointed. And who can ignore the always dreamy flow of the fabrics? Impressive..On to another direction now for Alexis Mabille (at Salon des miroirs):
No brownie points for guessing where the theme of this collection came from. This is a departure for me from the usual mens fashion I gravitate towards and is also a departure for Mabille (no bows!) with an ever so slightly more masculine thread throughout. The strong cut and material of the coats help to toughen up the collection but the styling of the above ensemble is whimsical but surprisingly cool.As always, Prorsum (from MILAN I know but it's a constant feature here..) delivers some killer coats for AW, which should be strong pieces in any self respecting winter collection but the colours and some of the cuts just don't do it for me.. I'm not a big believer in wearing different coats for every possible weather combination and this is obviously where this collection jars with me. You decide:
(Had to showcase the panelling..) And if you haven't seen it already, find the rather wet Prorsum finale here.Another old time favourite is Rick Owens (at POPB, salle Marcel Cerdan):
The myriad of influences in this latest outing can porbably be guessed just by careful observation and there is real skill in the way that Rick has managed to combine them all into a cohesive, incredibly cut collection. Men in skirts have never looked so cool since the Scots. Also note his signature awesome boots..Lastly, on to the rather interesting collection that Margiela (at Passage du Désir, BETC) presented to his audience with a backstage view where they could dissect the pieces one by one:
The choice of models in this show was probably the direct opposite of those by Yamamoto - older and exceedingly handsome, which presents a perfectly inoffensive but strong setting for garments they carry. Some have commented that this is a more wearable collection from the fashion house but we shall see whether this is a trend..Postscript: I had wanted to feature an amazing designer who goes by the name of In Aisce but until I can find public pictures of his latest collection, I shall refrain. If you are on Style Zeitgeist, you can view the collection here
Couture Week post coming soon..
Until then! Bisous
All photos courtesty of Style.com
Friday, 10 December 2010
Pre-fall A-plenty
It's that wonderful time of year again where we get the teasingly sneaky peak into the near future of fashion.
My pick of pics will warm you up more than a... picture of a fireplace (not including the cocktail dresses and evening wear). Although the best way to warm up is to buy something furry. Unfortunately, cold weather-triggered buying is generally quite costly - shearling this, fur that, distressed leather those...
I digress.
Let's start with...
Donna Karan:
I was drawn in by the masterful layering. I know that's the only thing I go on about for the autumn collections but you don't know nuthin' if you can't put garments on top of each other and make it look hot. Forget about statement pieces. It's the statement outfit. Loving the double and triple belts - brings a needed edge to the outfits to prevent looking like you had a shopping spree in the GAP.
At Chanel (aka the visual roller coaster):
Once again, a plentiful and heavily embellished collection. You may have noticed the Paris-Byzance theme in all its gold, chunky and emperial glory (if not, don't be alarmed but you may be blind). Unfortunately, 67 looks later and only a handful of stand out pieces/looks. And best not to mention the ever-embarrassing 'menswear' attempts randomly inserted at various points.
Or, maybe I'm just horribly biased because the only thing that might raise your core temperature are some weirdly festive knits and (quelle surprise) tweed.
But let's not forget the sheer workmanship and skill that is required to create these jewel-adorned pieces and the meticulous details. Also, there is no doubt that these evening looks will be embraced on the red carpet. Sadly, that's not enough to receive an all round positive review from me.
*(Karl, now shocked and saddened by the news of my mediocre review, issues a statement that he will be out of the business for a while to rethink his design aesthetic)
Now Eli Tahari:
*(love the matron look!)
I have to say I'm rather torn with this collection. I am definitely a sucker for elegant practicality - but where is the line between that and just quite a good outfit day at the office? The fur slung across the shoulder helps, probably. And the LBD is always a winner. Undecided.
Jason Wu (no relation):
His pre-fall is definitely more autumn than winter. But who can resist (not moi) the beautiful colour palette he chose for this collection?? The strong, yet not overpowering and obvious combinations make my eyes happy. Nude and pastels are still in the fray it seems and are stitched into dresses, jackets and whole outfits in a very pleasing fashion.
With only one obvious boo boo (the white shirt, black bow tie and black trousers combo - plain lazy), this is a very solid, if not a bit whimsical collection (I'm all about the oxymorons today!). Just pause to admire the floor-length stunners at the end.
Will update when more shows roll in and we move past (boring) New York!
My pick of pics will warm you up more than a... picture of a fireplace (not including the cocktail dresses and evening wear). Although the best way to warm up is to buy something furry. Unfortunately, cold weather-triggered buying is generally quite costly - shearling this, fur that, distressed leather those...
I digress.
Let's start with...
Donna Karan:
I was drawn in by the masterful layering. I know that's the only thing I go on about for the autumn collections but you don't know nuthin' if you can't put garments on top of each other and make it look hot. Forget about statement pieces. It's the statement outfit. Loving the double and triple belts - brings a needed edge to the outfits to prevent looking like you had a shopping spree in the GAP.At Chanel (aka the visual roller coaster):
Once again, a plentiful and heavily embellished collection. You may have noticed the Paris-Byzance theme in all its gold, chunky and emperial glory (if not, don't be alarmed but you may be blind). Unfortunately, 67 looks later and only a handful of stand out pieces/looks. And best not to mention the ever-embarrassing 'menswear' attempts randomly inserted at various points.Or, maybe I'm just horribly biased because the only thing that might raise your core temperature are some weirdly festive knits and (quelle surprise) tweed.
But let's not forget the sheer workmanship and skill that is required to create these jewel-adorned pieces and the meticulous details. Also, there is no doubt that these evening looks will be embraced on the red carpet. Sadly, that's not enough to receive an all round positive review from me.
*(Karl, now shocked and saddened by the news of my mediocre review, issues a statement that he will be out of the business for a while to rethink his design aesthetic)
Now Eli Tahari:
*(love the matron look!)I have to say I'm rather torn with this collection. I am definitely a sucker for elegant practicality - but where is the line between that and just quite a good outfit day at the office? The fur slung across the shoulder helps, probably. And the LBD is always a winner. Undecided.Jason Wu (no relation):
His pre-fall is definitely more autumn than winter. But who can resist (not moi) the beautiful colour palette he chose for this collection?? The strong, yet not overpowering and obvious combinations make my eyes happy. Nude and pastels are still in the fray it seems and are stitched into dresses, jackets and whole outfits in a very pleasing fashion.With only one obvious boo boo (the white shirt, black bow tie and black trousers combo - plain lazy), this is a very solid, if not a bit whimsical collection (I'm all about the oxymorons today!). Just pause to admire the floor-length stunners at the end.
Will update when more shows roll in and we move past (boring) New York!
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